Distance: 64.9 miles / 104.4 km
Elevation: 4,144 feet / 1,263 m
Time: 7 hours and 25 minutes (5 hours and 1 minute cycling)
More San Bernardino Pass
As the forecast predicted, the weather this morning was much more pleasant. Whilst it was still a little chilly, the rain had moved on and it was actually quite sunny.
The first job for the day was to finish climbing the San Bernardino pass. The part I’d climbed the day before was really the pre-climb, with the main event coming up not long in to my ride. For motor vehicles, there is a 6.6km tunnel. For cyclists and motorcyclists, there’s 25 uphill hairpin bends spread over 14km or so, followed by another 41 on the descent – I would not only be descending the elevation I had gained today, but the extra I had banked the day before as well.
I really liked this climb. It wasn’t so steep and I had a good view of where I’d climbed from – which is always pretty rewarding. The summit (at 2,066m) has a really nice lake called Laghetto Moesola, and there were some tuk-tuks parked up. I can’t even imagine how much stress they were put under to ascend this!
Whilst there were one or two lumps on the descent, it was almost 50km in length. I couldn’t quite believe my cycling computer at times when I looked at the elevation reading. It lasted a proper long time and was an amazing reward after a lot of climbing already in my legs.
Looking for food
At the base I was looking for dinner, but of course everything closes at midday on a Saturday. Even the cafes ???? which makes no sense to me. Where do they go for dinner if everywhere else is closed?
I decided to carry on until 14:00 when most establishments opened their doors again. The first place I found was a restaurant – generally I have been just calling at shops and small cafés during the day, but I was proper hungry at this stage. I ordered an “Americana pizza with chips” and the waiter seemed to really question the chips part. He asked for my confirmation, which I gave. I was confused by his confusion. It arrived and the chips had been added as a topping ???? technically I got what I asked for I suppose, but it wasn’t exactly what I had in mind.
Shopping for sun cream
The sun was really beaming down now so I visited Aldi for some new sun cream. I had forgotten that Aldi is laid out with no rhyme nor reason, and I was struggling to find it. At one point I thought I had found it near the burger buns, but that was exfoliating hand cream. In the end I left frustrated and without.
Coop was much more up my street and I found what I needed without much trouble. To my surprise, upon application, the sun cream was blue. I double checked the bottle and I am pretty sure it’s sun cream.. but I hadn’t had any before that isn’t white. Obviously I rubbed it in after I took the photo.. I know how it works.
Just before Bodio I saw the drill head used to bore out the Gotthard pass road tunnel. It was absolutely massive but didn’t seem very sharp. I’m not sure if you were meant to touch it really ????
A return to camping
When I arrived at tonight’s campsite, the lady asked whether I wanted an electric hookup for an electric fridge or kettle. I know I’m carrying a lot in my panniers but I don’t reckon many cyclists would be carrying those items with them! Especially not up the Stelvio. I laughed quite loudly because I thought she was telling me a joke, but she seemed deadly serious.
I had yet another pizza for tea – which means I’ve doubled my holiday pizza count to four now. This one was also a bit weird, with an egg and a steak on top. I am a bit confused because the price of the pizza was much less than the price of a steak, yet I would say that the amount given was pretty generous. Not that I am complaining!
Tomorrow is Sunday which seems to mean no shops are open. The town of Faido has some 24 hour vending machines, which I’m hoping to find more of en route. Highlights include cheese and sausages for sale, in case you are desperate in a time of emergency.
